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This was a problem spot in the AMP gauge system that often made Dodge owners walk. Run a wire from the gauge to a grounding point under the dash. Typical Dodge electrical problems result from a very antiquated power distribution system.
The warning light was often standard equipment and the gauge was an option. If moisture had caused the oxidation, all the terminals would have been corroded. This gauge is included in Diagram A.
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The plastic mounting area behind the dash is completely melted, and the lens and plastic trim is shriveled too. Attach an eyelet to the end of the wire you just ran from the lighting circuit wire.
Current output from the small Model A generators was not even sufficient to support sealed beam headlights. If it has a screw mount, you need to make sure that it is mounted in a spot where screws will not hit anything inside the dash.
Using a three wire connector, crimp that wire to the lighting wire. Also seen in Diagram A. It was an arrangement resulting with a very long wire circuit charging the battery. Then connect it to the wire that you ran to the battery.
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But the design was certainly not up to the job of handling the entire alternator output. Install an eyelet connector and crimp into place on one end, and crimp a butt connector on the other end.
Install the negative battery cable and tighten until it is snug. Run the wiring between the gauge and the battery.
Find the wire that goes to the lighting circuit.
And severe oxidation of the terminal itself is evidence that this terminal has been glowing hot. But the old AMP-gauge-at-the-dash system is not reliable with increased current loads of the more modern electrical system.
The additional current flow when using the air conditioning and increased resistance with heat will break down the weak areas more quickly. A previous owner had replaced the terminals at the back of the AMP gauge, and then did a weak by-pass of the gauge by taping the two wire terminals together.
Start your vehicle and verify that the gauge is working. There are a variety of gauges available, in both analog and digital, and in various colors and styles to suit your vehicle. This connection served as a pass-through for the main wire from the alternator to the dash area.
The old Model A was equipped with a small light bulb backed up by a large reflector in the headlight assembly.
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First, you need to see how the gauge mounts: And it happens that Dodge was built with this terminal design, even at the main power delivery circuit.
They should be by-passed, and then install a VOLT gauge. When driving, the entire electrical system current load will pass through this connector.
The main source of power for the Dodge electrical system is based upon an old design AMP gauge at the dash and related wiring system.
The newer AMP gauge was a remote shunt type design—a length of the battery charging wire in the Hook up amp gauge harness served as the shunt. Attach an eyelet to the end of the wire that will connect to the gauge.
The plastic connector body surrounding the female flat blade terminal is beginning to melt away. Remove the memory saver. Notice that the other terminals in the connector body are still in good condition. Amperage is a measure of current flow, and all of the current used to recharge the battery was routed through this Std dating app caused the gauge to display the battery charge rate.
Arrow B points out the red, 10 gauge, battery charging wire.
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